Not a statement sleeve

I had this fabulous rayon print that I purchased to make something to wear over the holidays.  There is a lot of cooking and entertaining at our house- so I need a functional garment.  But there are also lots of guests and visitors, so I want to look spiffy.  And it’s cold here- I live in the North- so I need to be covered up.  I decided to make a basic jewel neck top but was undecided about the sleeve style.  Sleeves- I admit that I have made more than a few flouncy statement sleeves on garments as sleeve details are very current- but wait, it looks like sleeves have always been a thing: see vintage sleeves!.  Even though there are a myriad of interesting sleeve options, for this top, I opted for “sensible” rather than “statement”  sleeves.

I hacked this Cynthia Rowley Pattern for the top.  This Simplicity pattern is discontinued- and there are easier ways to make a basic top - for example you could use this. Anyway, I altered my pattern by drawing a lower neckline, eliminating the slit and drafting a simple front neck facing.  Then I added about an inch of width on each side.  I also skipped the zip and added a very simple loop/button closure in the back.  I lengthened the sleeve and I used wide elastic that I had on hand. 

Sensible sleeve success.  The sleeves are in control and best of all- these sleeves are easy to wear! Practical elastic cuffs keep sleeves neat and in place so I can cook and accomplish other business at hand.

Here is a back view!

Mild mannered moto jacket

I have always been drawn to leather moto jackets- they are so chic- but I never felt I could pull this style off authentically.  When I stumbled across the moto jacket in this Butterick pattern. I decided to give it a try in a softer, gentler fabric choice.

I used a boiled wool from Emma One Sock. There are plenty of these boucle fabrics around- you can find them in 100% wool- typically more expensive -or in an affordable wool rayon blend like I used. 

The fabric is drapey- so the jacket looks a lot less structured than in the pattern pic. It was easy to sew up, but I ran into TWO fit related problems.  Even though I cut the jacket in the smallest size- it was too large and sloppy in front.  So, I took the jacket apart. Yes- this was after it was put together AND after I had already topstitched the seams -ARGH!  I scaled down the front bodice pieces and kept the body pieces of the back and sleeves mostly intact.

Second- you will notice the hem extends beyond the zip- once I tried it on, I wanted more length.  I may be short, but I have a long waist.  I ended up using a knit binding to face the hem for additional length. Because the look is soft and sweater-like, I didn’t add a lining. 

StyleArc Sadie Tunic

I am constantly looking for an easy and interesting woven top.  I love my button downs, but sometimes I am in the mood for something a bit less serious- but still classy.  I experimented with several tunic style tops, but had yet to come up with a winning style. Then, I stumbled upon the Sadie by StyleArc. I was tempted by the Sadie because of the classy and interesting features:  the sweet boat neck, the French darts, the interesting hem finish, and those sleeves!

This was my first StyleArc pattern and I ordered the PDF online.  The multi size pattern pieces and instructions were clear. I cut my usual pattern size and the fit was TTS.

I eliminated the back closure because I knew I wouldn’t need it with the wide neck.  I also shortened the tunic which is a typical adjustment for me.  The fabric is a linen cotton blend from the fabulous Treadle Yard Goods- a winning solid- not quite solid.

The sleeves were totally a blast to put together. A bit of a puzzle and a fun surprise. I just followed the clear instructions. They remind me of origami projects- where you aren’t quite certain what will turn up until you fold, turn and reveal.

The top is easy to make and super comfortable as a throw on and go option.

The useful Tamarack

The Tamarack!  This is both a versatile tree and fabulous Grainline pattern.  Tamarack -from the native Abenaki language- means “wood used for snowshoes.”  Tamarack trees are native to Minnesota and their wood is used for framing houses, utility poles, paper pulp, and dog sled runners in addition to those wooden snowshoes.  Tamarack needles can be made into a tea to soothe sore throats!  So versatile- so many uses.

Grainline’s Tamarack pattern is also adaptable; I was inspired by Jen’s version of a non-quilted Tamarack . This option matched my need/want for a jacket/topper/blazer that works for my casual/professional work environment.

Here’s the low-down on my take on the useful Tamarack pattern:

I used an amazing cotton jacquard from Mood Fabrics. This particular design is no longer available, but there are similar choices here.

I cut my usual size 4 and squared the bottom front and back.

I faced the jacket instead of binding the edges per pattern instructions.  The fabric is a bit bulky and uneven- with a cool handmade vibe- and I worried that a self binding might be too lumpy.  Full disclosure- I also didn’t have enough fabric to make a bias binding- so typical!  It was easy to draft facings using the front and back pattern pieces.

I also skipped lining the jacket. I spiffed up the inside of the jacket with a snappy Hong-Kong finish on all seams and the hem. Oops- note that skimpy hem. Another sign of my lack of sufficient yardage.

No Tamarack trees were harmed in this post. Leftover holiday greenery!

Ode to the Archer

It is only fitting to launch this blog with an ode to Grainline’s Archer.  Before I discovered the Archer, I sewed almost exclusively from the big three pattern companies.  But, I got restless.  I had dabbled in vintage patterns and some craft patterns.  And then-happily- I stumbled across Grainline Studio. Oh brave new world! 

Grainline was a safe choice for my first independent pattern sewing project.  Archer was accessible, Grainline is from the Midwest- like me- and Archer appreciation is huge.  The Archer launched connections to independent pattern makers and the online sewing community- so grateful for that.  I return to the Archer often. To date, I have completed seven Archers (not all for me!)- and counting.

Here is my most recent Archer in an amazing silk from Emma one sock.  I am a sucker for floral button ups- and this floral is especially pleasing.  This exact print is not currently available but there are so many tempting choices

The Archer is a perfect and comfortable fit for me- I don’t adjust anything in the sizing.  Over the years, I increasingly add a smidgen to the length.  I might have increased this one too much.  Couldn’t decide if I would be tucking in or not.  Hmmmm….

Admiring the shirt length- or my new clogs! I used French Fuse to interface- my interfacing of choice for so many projects.  I almost always finish my Archer with French seams- but for some reason, I was in a rush to finish this model and skipped that. I did not top stitch the collar, because it turned and pressed so nicely I decided to keep it spare.